Dublin - A City of Overwhelming Intrigue

Dublin. What a city.

I've been here for about five days, and each of them have been filled to the brim with adventure, exhaustion, and endless exploration. There is much to write and much to tell, but with limited time, I will say only that I promise to divulge all that my time in Dublin held...at a later date. Tomorrow we head across the water again to merry old England. Wales to be exact. I am immensely looking forward to the calm, quite, and isolation of our location. Until then, cheers!

To the Islands.

With wind whipped hair and salt soaked skin, we made our way by boat to the Blasket Islands yesterday. The Blasket Islands are located off the coast of Dingle Bay. These islands were once inhabited, but are now left totally abandoned with only donkeys, sheep, and rabbits to roam their shores. Stone ruins still liter the islands, as do old and worn roads and trails. After a rough and thrilling ride across the water, we were left on the island to simply explore as we pleased. It really is a fascinating place with a rich culture and history of literature. We wandered through the abandoned structures, hiked the perimeter of the island, and played with seals on the beach – and somehow this is all a part of my study abroad. Bliss.

Blasket Island ruins

Blasket Island beach

But back to the mainland. Dingle is perhaps one of the most delightful places I have ever set foot in. It is full of color (literally, the buildings are very colorful), local Irish music, and delicious salty sea air. For the past few days we have set off to explore this town and this area. Our wanderings have taken us to the docks, to an old abandoned lighthouse, and to the “beehive huts” among other places. Now, being a fan of the book “Confessions of a Pagan Nun”, I was thrilled to go to the beehive huts. These little beehive shaped structures were the monastic homes to some of the first monks and nuns who came to the area. The fact that there are so many left and that they are so intact (especially considering they are made without mortar, but purely by rock stacking) is amazing. They sprinkle the Dingle hillsides.

Beehive Huts

Tomorrow is our last full day in Dingle, and it is clear that our week spent on this western coast of Ireland has not nearly been enough time. It seems as though time is water running through our hands and we simply cannot slow it down.

Dingle, you are brilliant.

Ferry to Ireland

On the ferry from Wales to Ireland.

Thanks to the Icelandic volcano, which persists in spewing ash and other debris into the atmosphere, most all flights in the UK have been canceled. This includes our flight to Dingle, Ireland. So, what would have been a few hours of travel has turned into a full day of bus rides and ferry rides. As odd as it sounds, I can’t say I’m not a bit relieved – I love avoiding the chaos of airports, and as I sit looking out the ferry window and down at the sea between Wales and Ireland, I’m thrilled to have such a view. Blue skies, sparkling waters – I almost don’t believe I’m in the rainy UK.

As for the going ons our last few days in Keswick, I was fortunate to take two different day trips. The first was to Beatrix Potter’s home and village on a nearby lake. It was wonderful getting to walk through her home and garden seeing so much of what inspired her and thus so much of what filled my childhood. Peter Rabbit, Mrs. Tiggy-Winkle, Jeremy Fisher...I love you. Our next day trip was to the home and village of Wordsworth and many of the Romantic poets – Grassmere. Goodness, such beautiful country! As I stole a daffodil from his garden while muttering “I wandered lonely as a cloud” I couldn’t help but feel a bit closer to some of my favorite poets.

Outside Hilltop ~ Home of Beatrix Potter

Yesterday we went to the local church in Keswick, and as the pastor prayed for the queen and later quoted John Lennon, I was sure I had found myself in good hands. It wasn’t until the phrases, “God doesn’t laugh at your jokes, he laughs at your stupidity” and “human rights are pagan” began to emerge in the sermon, that I found myself a bit discouraged by the fire and brimstone feel of the place. I can only hope that the pastor didn’t see my looks of utter shock and disagreement, although, perhaps I do. The rest of Sunday, our last day in Keswick, was wonderful. We had a picnic at a local Rugby game, and while I can’t pretend I understand anything about the game, it was extremely entertaining. This was followed by the discovery of an absolutely delightful shop in town. Not only does this place sell beautiful photography printed on canvas among other glorious things, but they also have a tea/coffee shop inside. I’m putting the link here because you really must check them out (especially Erica…you would LOVE their craftiness).

www.temporarymeasure.co.uk

A few shots from inside

And so, we are onto Dingle, Ireland. A land of ancient monastic settlements, Gaelic speaking citizens, and an array of biking and horse back riding opportunities. While a bit sad to leave beloved Derwentwater, Ireland is certainly an okay alternative at the very least.

Derwentwater Hostel...aka Old English Mansion

Books Books Books

We have finished our second week of classes and a number of novels and plays as well. Thus far, Richard III, Midsummer Night's Dream, Troilus and Criseyde, and The French Lieutenant's Woman have graced our classroom and filled hours of reading. Trips to town, nightime talks on the ferry dock, and the consuming of cheese have filled my hours here in Keswick. It is delightful and peaceful here, and I won't be quite ready to leave on Monday, although the prospect of Ireland is a bit exciting. Dr. Reinsma continues to provide daily wisdom in each class and conversation, and as we wade through literature, toy with existentialism, and compare the vastly different nature of our various readings we are learning loads. Cheers!

"They sensed that current accounts of the world were inadequate; that they had allowed their windows on reality to become smeared by convention, religion, social stagnation; they knew, in short, that they had things to discover, and that the discovery was of the utmost importance to the future of man."

-John Fowles - The French Lieutenant's Woman

Soul Catching

Catching up with one’s soul might not be as difficult ask you’d think. All it requires is some good literature, beautiful English air, and enough time to get lost in the countryside. While two ten mile hikes and a night of dancing in a short 48 hour period might not be recommended by most, it definitely is by me. I must confess, that while I feel perpetually busy by all that there is to do in this country in addition to classes, I also feel an immense sense of peace here. Contentedness is not something I’m known for, and so to rid my self of restlessness in exchange for it is quite a glorious feeling.

Now to the relaying of events. Its impossible even to know where to begin.

Keswick is one of the most beautiful places I have ever experienced. I think lakes, mountains and forests tend to capture most people’s hearts, but even more so when there are dotted by sheep, English folk, and fog. I’m not sure I ever want to leave this place.

Yesterday, our professor lead a 6am hike to Castlerigg – the location of a Neolithic stone circle. To trapse through forest and field at dawn, and to see the sunrise as you hit the peak is perhaps one of the most beautiful sights a person can experience. As we made our way to the stone circle in the early morning air, mist and fog clung to the mountain tops, farmers were in the fields feeding their sheep, and we, somehow, were able to be a part of this most wonderful moment. It is almost inconceivable to think that life such as this exists on a daily basis. Ten miles later we landed in the town of Keswick, and as shops began to open, we enjoyed a full and traditional English breakfast. Don’t worry, the vegetarian version is, in fact, delicious.

Sunrise over the Derwentwater Peaks

Castlerigg ~ Neolithic Stone Circle

That evening a group of us went to the “disco tech” for a ridiculous night of dancing with the Keswick locals. I shouldn’t say we danced with the Keswick locals, because really, we danced and they just laughed at us. Regardless, it was wonderful to make some English friends, discuss life at Uni (University), and exchange notes on various cultural norms.

This morning a few of us went on another hiking excursion, this time to a place called Catbells – one of the larger peaks on the lake. Taking a ferry across the lake to the trailhead, our boat cut through the water like glass. Sun shining and air completely still, I’m not sure how we got blessed with such weather. Snaking our way up to the top, the Catbells summit boasted epic views of Lake Derwentwater and the surrounding towns and villages. The peacefulness up there was incomparable. We enjoyed drinking spring water right from the streams that flowed down the hillside, a dip in the FREEZING lake, and a most civilized tea time with scones, clotted cream and all.

Derwentwater ~ A lake of glass

Reaching the summit of Catbells

View atop Catbells

With aching body, reeling mind, and restored soul, I am ready for a Sunday of rest and Anglican services. A bit of reading may have to follow, and by a bit of reading I mean I have a lot of catching up to do.

Onto Keswick

Waking at sunrise to the sound of a waterfall and birds chirping.

We’ve left the bustling streets of Edinburgh, full of tartans, stone high-rises, and the crowds. This morning, we wake in Keswick, England. As part of the Lake District, our hotel is located right on the shore of Lake Derwentwater. High peaks loom around the lake and our hostel is neighbor to a waterfall cascading directly behind. We have entered rural England - where people come to hike, where sheep roam the slopes, and, of course, where Wordsworth lived and gained much of the experience and inspiration for his poetry.

But back to Edinburgh, because there are many wonderful stories still to tell about our time there. First, I must rave about the weather. Sunny, sunny, sunny! A glorious fact, considering not two days before they had accumulated about eight inches of snow. I’d like to think our coming brought the sun as well.

Well, upon our second day in Edinburgh we took a historical tour of the city led by a most spectacular tour guide, Morag, a native Scotswoman. She stole my heart the moment she sang us songs in the native Scottish tongue. We saw the graves of famous men such as David Hume and Robert Burns, walked the Royal Mile, took in views of St. Giles cathedral, and ended at the Edinburgh Castle. It was so much history to take in, and while a bit overwhelming, it was wonderful to orient ourselves with this city and the stories and lives that have been apart of its development.

The afternoon held a hike up Arthur’s Seat, a prominent peak located right in the center of Edinburgh. Climbing up the craggy trail, I half expected to see William Wallace running down towards me, in fact, I’m not sure I didn’t. Once reaching the top, we had the most breath-taking view of Edinburgh and the surrounding areas. The city, the sea, the mountains; we saw it all.

And then Easter Sunday. A day usually full of family, easter egg hunts and Don Fransisco was instead a holiday in a foreign country with peers. Even so, it was quite wonderful. We decided to attend a service at St. Giles cathedral located right on the Royal Mile. I cannot even begin to tell you what an amazing service it was. To be in a Cathedral drenched in art, history, and tradition was truly powerful. Not only that, but the choir was perhaps the most beautiful I have ever heard. The Scots can sing! I promise, no exaggeration here. The rest of Easter Sunday was spent studying at Black Medicine Coffee Co. – a coffee shop I could make a habit. My mocha was truly divine.

We begin classes here in the Lake District today, and the realization that we are here to attend school is starting to set in. This means more time spend reading and studying, and less time gallivanting around this beautiful country. With Dr. Reinsma as our professor, classes will be anything but painful though. I am looking forward to Chaucer, Shakespeare and Fowles!

Our wonderful professor ~ Dr. Reinsma

The Elephant House

Snow. Edinburgh is full of snow.

Well, really the surrounding area has a generous covering and the nearby mountains, more like buttes, look like marshmallow pillows. It makes for a delicious countryside. But enough about marshmallows and my initial view of Scotland from the plane - I am in Edinburgh! From greenery, architecture and accents, I am sold. And goodness, those accents! Such a rich, rolling tone. I am really considering adopting one...or adopting someone who has one.

Day one of this adventure has proved to be simply wonderful. I really hope that it is an indicator of what the next nine months will look like! After landing yesterday morning, our group took a bus to the Links Hotel located right on Meadow Park. Despite overwhelming jet lag, a few of us set off to explore the city. We made our way to Blackwells, a delightful bookstore right in the heart of the city, to pick up our copies of Canterbury Tales. Not only is this volume daunting in content, but also in size. I really have no idea where I am going to pack it or how I am going to wade through its archaic poetry. Nevertheless, I shall prevail!

Meandering through the streets we came upon a truly spectacular find: The Elephant House. I would love this cafe simply because of its atmosphere and wonderful food and coffee, but it is made even more glorious by the fact that it is the birthplace of Harry Potter. Yes, J.K. Rowling wrote her first few fragmented ideas of what would become Harry Potter on a napkin in this shop. Naturally, feeling rather inspired, I filched a napkin to write on as well.

Mochas and Stromboli like no other.

And just for Mother, here is Greyfriars Bobby:

A favorite in the Margo household

This little pup waited outside the nearby pub everyday for his master, and continued to do so even after his master had passed away. Clearly Edinburgh loves this little guy too. The rest of the evening held time for reading, journaling and of course dinner at the pub downstairs.

I have a feeling the British Isles and I are about to become fast friends.