Wednesday, February 20, 2013

In Russia, One Can Only Believe

Russia cannot be understood with the mind alone,
No ordinary yardstick can span her greatness:
She stands alone, unique –
In Russia, one can only believe.

-Fyodor Tyutchev

Nothing in life is to be feared. It is only to be understood.
-Marie Curie

It's good to fund a lost cause for a long time.
-George Soros

Saturday, February 16, 2013

A Closed Society


No human is perfect. No country is perfect. We live in a vastly flawed world where people do what they must to survive and progress. Whether it is abusing the human rights of an entire population for economic gain or judging and stereotyping people in our own lives, to some degree we are all part of this web. Certainly the hope (or my own hope) is that as we grow and develop as humans and as a society, we are able move away from this instinctual survival mechanism. We can learn to accept and appreciate those that are different than us, we can redefine our own culture in a way that is more inclusive and understanding.  

My mind has been heavy with such thoughts this past week as I have continually witnessed the failings of the society I am currently living in. Russians themselves are harshly stereotyped as communists, corrupt or intolerant people. While I have definitely met Russians who fit some of these stereotypes, I also know that the people I work with are none of these things. They have committed themselves to a difficult cause. They are selfless, loving and persevering. So as I begin to make a generalization about this country and this culture, know that this does not speak for everyone and it is only a situational observation.

One of our main projects here in Saint Petersburg is working in the city’s local HIV baby orphanage. Children under the age of 5 live here until their HIV status can be determined, after which they go to a general orphanage or one of the HIV orphanages for older children. We have been in discussion with the doctor trying to organize our first visit and the work that we would do there. Last week, we were told that we would not be allowed to enter because of our status as Americans. Much of this stems from Russia’s recent adoption law, which bans Americans from adopting Russian children. This is a complex issue in itself, but is effects are magnified beyond the adoption issue. This news was extremely disappointing, but we reached out to several other HIV orphanages in the city with hopes that they would not have the same fear and stigma. At this point, we have been turned away from three orphanages on the grounds that “it is too risky to allow Americans in the orphanage.” Many of these orphanages have had volunteers before, but it just isn’t worth it to them to open their doors to Americans when they might receive unwanted attention from authoritative institutions. At the same time, it is infuriating that these orphanage workers aren’t willing to take a small risk for the betterment of the children who live under their protection. They would rather stay under the radar to make their own jobs and lives easier.

It cannot be classified as a black and white issue, but it is the antithesis of the fearful and self-preservational nature of this culture - and justifiably so. Under a government that classifies its own Russian humanitarian workers as “foreign agents,” a government that bans HIV+ people from adopting children, a government that frequently does passport checks and required registrations you simply cannot expect to live your life openly. You must live with hesitation. You must close your doors. You must not take risks.

The barriers we are encountering from our desire to volunteer and,  in some small way, improve the lives of HIV+ children who are entering into a future of discrimination and rejection, are part of both a deeply rooted cultural issue and governance issue. So then what hope is there for these children, for those living with HIV, for this nation? It is an interesting time to be in Russia. The hope that this state would progress into a post-communist democracy wavers. With each passing year, established figures within the political system gain power while people lose the will to voice their opinions. Rather than developing as an open society that is open to questions and criticism, Russia pushes out organizations like USAID and UNICEF because they don’t want to hear outside opinions and they don’t want to address the issues within their nation through evidence-based methods.

As Russia closes herself off from the world, her people close themselves off from the “other” as well. If you are different, you are feared and you will be rejected. It is every person’s job to take care of themselves and their own. Compassion and effort end there. In this definitive stage of Russia’s development, NGOs much make a decision. Many choose to cut themselves off from international donors and support because they fear that they will be investigated and deemed “foreign agents” if they collaborate. Others take the risk because they know that this is possibly the only real way to effectively make change in a sustainable way. But how long can they receive funds and support (and interns!) from abroad? 

Natalie and I will continue to contact orphanages in the hopes that someone will have the courage to take a risk and let us enter. We will continue to support our coworkers knowing that in their passion and drive to advocate for those with and affected by HIV will make a difference despite countless barriers. We will continue to learn about this culture and understand some real way that we can persevere through the fear and stigma.

Also, if you want to know why I do what I do, watch this video.